WHAT'S NEW IN THE GOWN GALLERY?

Tashiko! A silk dupion modified A-line. If you like embossed chiffon, you’ll love the treatment I gave it here. The sleeves look more like lace folding into a gathered sweetheart empire waist that ties in back creating a sweep train. The underskirt is layers of crin trimmed in yards of lace.

Photos by Smoot Photo/Hair by Gayle Parker
Inspiration for this dress came from two sources: the obi sashes on the backs of wedding kimonos and this 1805 portrait of Mlle. Riviere by Ingres, a copy of which hangs in my kitchen and I guess has been inspiring me a long time now. The regency look of the early 19th century is visible here but so is the Asian influence with the back sash that ties like an obi. Also, the chiffon is embossed with lilies and they always remind me of the Far East.

PAPER WEDDING DRESSES

Look what's new on ETSY. Boy have I been waiting for these--Atomic Rabbit's wedding dress note card collection. Last month I featured the ball gown note cards and ordered a box for myself wondering . . . wouldn't it be neat if there was an assortment of wedding dresses . . .

I plan on ordering more of these to send as thank you notes to clients and would-bees. Great for brides-to-be, maids-of-honor hosting showers, and moms of brides.

Liz is so gifted at creating these paper darlings I couldn't resist showing you the party dress collection below. If the paper doll/note card gig doesn't work out for Liz, she can come to work for me anytime as a designer. I don't think that will happen though--these cards are becoming a real trend.

You can see more of Liz's creations at her ETSY store, Atomic Rabbit.

SHADOWS

Thinking of going vintage? Every era has its own retro craze going. Right now we’re in love with the 1950s and all those Jackie/Audreyesque styles with defined waists and lots of skirt. When I was young (1970s) the retro trend was for long, granny gowns. This is the era when Jessica McClintock claimed fame with her Gunny Sax line of cotton and lace gowns. That was back in 1973 when I found a unique store called, Shadows of Forgotten Ancestors. Named the same as the popular Sergei Parajanov film that helped launch the craze for ethnic clothing, SOFA specialized in authentic folk costumes and fabrics. Eventually they brought in Edwardian lace gowns when brides put in requests for them. I used to cut chemistry class to drool over the lace- white confections hanging up high, lining the walls of this museum-like store.

Shadows of Forgotten Ancestors eventually became Shadows, and owner Sylvia Stewart evolved it into a bridal business, always keeping a showplace somewhere in the shop for her turn-of-the-century pieces. Still collectors of vintage, most of what they carry now is vintage-inspired.

If you're just starting to navigate around the world of retro, you’ll find most vintage clothing stores stock actual gowns from by-gone eras as well as ‘retro-inspired’ selections that are brand new. The bride in love with a particular era usually checks vintage clothing stores first. Not all brides opt for an actual gown that survived her favorite era though. Some choose a newer style reflecting the period instead. Why? Because that authentic 1925 chemise may be so delicate, without proper restoration it could literally fall apart. Think of gowns belonging to the ages like you would certain antiques: some so precious they are considered museum quality. Depending on restoration, the rule of thumb is, the older the gown the less they should be worn. If you are set on wearing that 1910 dress find a specialist in restoration who can advise. This could be a wise investment. If you do invest in an original 50s-60s style wedding gown, you’ll pay a lot less than the 1880s-1913 originals that, if intact, could be the equivalent to some down payments on a house.

After all these years Shadows is still in business. I stop by every so often to talk to Sylvia about my favorite subject: vintage fashion, or to be more precise, vintage bridal. You can visit Shadows online at http://www.shadowsbridal.com/.

Left and right: Retro-style gowns by Astoria

BRIDE MAIL

BrideMail@bridechic.com
I found this great dress online. It's a simple, strapless sheath that's perfect for wearing under that white organza I'm having designed. The problem is, it's a bridesmaid dress and the lightest color it comes in is tan.

Believe it or not, stumbling across that bridesmaid dress broadened this bride's options. She'd planned on designing a sheath to go under the nearly finished organza dress in the above sketch but she hadn't decided on the exact style yet. That is, till she saw the abovementioned sheath online, which, incidentally, she found out did come in a white silk dupioni and cost a fraction of what most salons or custom designers would have charged.

Wearing a bridesmaid dress when you're a bride is a mum's-the-word sort of trend going on now. Check out The Knot magazine or their site and you'll find a whole section devoted to bridesmaids. Also notice bridesmaid dresses don't look so much like those Muriel's Wedding atrocities anymore; most have morphed into simple, unadorned styles, making them the perfect backdrop for customizing into a bridal gown. The bridesmaid dress option is the way to go if:

1.) You're using it as a foundation on which to customize with other adornments.
2.) You want a more low- key or informal look, sans the train, lace and beadwork.
3.) You want color.
4.) You're price conscious. Bridesmaid dresses cost a fraction of what a bridal gown costs. For brides who don't want to be in white or ivory, bridesmaid dresses are perfect. They come in just about as many colors as Crayola crayons from the palest pastels to deepest jewel tones. Once you start looking online, keep in mind not all manufacturers use first-rate fabrics and/or construction (see my FYI designer recommendations below). Try to find styles in high-grade silk or silk blends. Especially if you plan on customizing, where you'll need as clean and pure a background as possible. And always remember, the simpler the dress, the more perfectly it should be made.

FYI: Here are my recommendations for bridesmaid designers offering the best in styles, fabric and construction: Lazaro Bridesmaids, Alvina Valenta Bridesmaids and Ann Taylor Celebrations. You'll find these on www.theknot.com

FYI: Most bridesmaid dresses can be ordered through your salon. Allow 3-4 months delivery

IS RENTING YOUR WEDDING GOWN REALLY AN OPTION?

You’d think this void in the market would be filled by some good old Yankee ingenuity but it hasn’t been. Yes you can certainly rent a gown these days, but try to find a place. According to brides, shops that do rent gowns are scattered thin. Once you do find a shop carrying rentals, most brides I talked with say the selection is paltry and disappointing. Typically the gowns are of the off shore knock-off variety and the service is lousy. In other words, Reem Acra and Vera Wang are nowhere to be seen.

So what about a system for renting gowns something like the guys have for choosing tuxes? The formal wear industry has streamlined the whole process of jumping into a Geoffrey Beane down to the point and click of a mouse. Because places like Selix and After Six are franchised and all carry the same stock, your guy’s best man in Miami can match his groomsmen in Seattle right down to the cuff links. Is this realistic for us though? Do we really want to get as efficient and streamlined as our men folk? I don’t know. A bride is such a pedestaled creature seeking that one-of-a-kind confection; it’s doubtful we’ll ever see bridal wear go this direction.
The beauty of renting (at least in theory) is the price. Rentals start at around $250.00. You return the gown after the big day and save the money that would have gone into it for your honeymoon or down payment on a car. No storing, preserving or worrying about your gown after the festivities are over. Though renting may sound great there are alternatives. You can buy a gown and consign it after the wedding. Okay, so maybe this is not as convenient as simply dropping off the dress from whence it came but definately one of your more practical options. More ideas: Find one on eBay. Go vintage. Here’s a link to a great web site that's getting popular called Once Wed. You can either buy or sell on this site and Emily is recommended by some of the most reputable bridal bloggers out there. Personally, I was impressed with the caliber of gowns I found here.

So back to the original question: Is renting your wedding gown really an option? Maybe. If you can actually find an Amsale in peau de soie for $200-300, with the veil thrown in, you've got yourself a deal.

LIFE BEFORE SPANX AND OTHER TORMENTS

When it comes to fashion, women in the 1950-60s lived in a great era. They looked incredibly feminine thanks to Christian Dior who reinvented ‘The New Look’ of cinched-in waists sitting a top miles of full skirts and petticoats. To this day, these are still some of the most beautiful designs in history. The down side? Yes there was a biggee. Every great work of art has to have a solid foundation. I ask you, what could be more solid and sturdy-looking than the above photo? Imagine your poor grandmother (or great-grandma as the case may be) deflating after a long day of being squeezed and nipped in like the lady above.

Fast forward forty-odd years. We have something called Spanx doing everything and more than the girdles and form-fitting bras of yesteryear. Designer/Innovator Sara Blakely, creator of Spanx has perfected the fit little by little, year by year. Spanx are incredibly sleek and sheer under your gown, look and feel like you’re wearing your own skin. This year’s innovations include, no seam running up the front of the Slim-Cognito mid-thigh shaper. In addition, Slim-Cogs come with rear-boost fanny pockets. That’s right. I call it a kind of 21st century bra to hold up your fanny.

And speaking of bras, check out the brand new Bra-llelujah made out of a special hosiery fabric that conforms to your skin. It hooks in front too. The result: no superfluous back fat or bra lines. Also has the shaped and molded cup and is specially designed and channeled so you don’t get that ‘underwired’ look.

Do check out the SPANX site. It’s your first step to creating a great foundation for your gown.

TREAT YOURSELF TO A GIFT

I haven't actually seen these paper dolls but I do own some of Tom Tierney's Dior dolls. This book is a designer's dream. Especially a designer who adores Hollywood. I recognize Audrey's Funny Face wedding gown by Givenchy on the cover. Is the gown next to it perchance Katherine Ross' runaway bride number from The Graduate? Also by Tierney are Brides from Around the World Paper Dolls. He's even brought out Obama and McCain Dolls. Check it all out on Amazon