ANOTHER ANNIVERSARY

Today is our anniversary so I'm remembering what it is like to get married . . . here I am with my beloved hubby, Edgar. Years back we married in a nearby seminary that had three stone castles and lent a kind of fairy-tale quality to our real life union. He wore a kilt, I wore a wreath and gown I designed out of 10 yards of imported French lace. The photo is by Hope Stewart, her work very loved and respected here in the San Francisco Bay Area. All her work carries a romantic feel to it--and that was my initial attraction to her. She's retired now but left behind an awesome body of work.

THE RETURN OF THE SLEEVE

White Chocolate Label by Scott Corridan

So why are brides going crazy as of late baring their arms like never before? I have a theory. Until lately, bridal fashion was a very restricted zone. With so many rules to follow, modesty was the most paramount. Covering one's self up as much as possible was de riguer, a throwback to 19th century propriety when brides symbolized purity and virginity. Fast forward to the 21st century and brides are celebrating a fashion liberation. Finally it's okay to be a bride and sexy, baring not only arms but decolletage and back as well as showing off some leg.

White Chocolate Label by Scott Corridan

So many years in fashion, I know those much missed sleeves will return. Once they make their comeback it will be with a highly creative edge. From a designer’s point of view, sleeves can be one of the most creative components on a gown. For me, a well-designed sleeve is a work of art; it combines fabric and adornment into the overall image of the gown. White Chocolate Label by Scott Corridan

Justin Alexander Couture

Besides looking beautiful, the right sleeves can add bodice appeal as well as keep your skirt or sloping shoulders in proportion. Although not foremost, keeping arms warm could be another option for wearing sleeves. Once upon a time etiquette dictated the length sleeve you could wear during winter months or time of day you got married. Fortunately these restrictions were lifted long ago. Nowadays, you can go for long sleeves in summer, short caps in winter if that’s your desire. Be realistic though. Just make sure you have a decent wrap or stole in New York for your December wedding. As for long sleeves next July in Palm Springs, go for them. Ever since Vera Wang popularized the detachable sleeve that ties and unties from your gown’s bodice, brides still opt for them.

The ever youthful and charming puffed sleeve. This version of balloned tulle by Christos is attached to an ivory lace A-line.
Pronovias

Atelier Aimee

Karl Lagerfeld

Jenny Packham
When choosing a sleeve, think of them in terms having their very own silhouette within the outline of your gown as a whole. The sleeves below are a fine example: 3/4 legnth Chantilly lace.
Y&Kei

Biba

Monique Lhuillier

ONCE UPON A TIME: HAPPY ANNIVERSARY GRACE AND RAINER

source

April 19, 1956, the world was treated to a storybook romance come true when actress Grace Kelly married Prince Rainer of Monaco. Thinking back to roles she played before she became a princess, we remember Grace Kelly as the ultimate 'Deb'. Had she not pursued acting with such determination, in all probability she would have become just that : A Mainline Philadelphia Debutante. As a result, on film she reflected that cool, refined blond to perfection.

source
Princess Grace's gown to this day is one of the most classic and remains the touchstone in bridal fashion. Impeccably made, the taffeta and Val lace confection was a wedding gift from MGM Studios. Imagine this: 25 yards of silk taffeta, 100 yards of silk net, and vintage Belgian rose point lace. Her headpiece was classic : a bandeau cap covered in tiny seed pearls under an intricate lace mantilla.
source
Designed by Helen Rose who worked on Kelly's costumes for High Society and The Swan, the gown was designed and run up in less than four months if you can believe that. Hollywood by then was ace at whipping up a masterpiece if a movie or event demanded. Over thirty seamstresses labored on the gown in the MGM workrooms round the clock. From a designer's standpoint, I'd have to say the Kelly gown is the most perfect dress ever made, despite it's speedy construction time. Made up of four different components, it's actually a combination of separates all put together to look like a traditional ballgown. Studying the construction diagrams with the fitted, long-sleeved bodice and full bell skirt, this gown though cutting edge back in 1956, will always be timeless.

Kelly's gown was donated to the Philadelphia Museum of Art shortly after her wedding in 1956. Today it's still there.



Vogue Patterns

If you love Grace's gown and want to incorporate components in your own gown, start by studying the original creation and Vogue pattern above that closely emulates this design. Luckily today's bride can be more daring. Though Grace was the epitome of a refined lady in her day, she worked in a glitzy industry. Marrying a prince, she wanted to reassure the Monegasques she wasn't just another movie star blond in sequins. Setting the tone for her reign, she chose the most classic of all designs. Contemporary brides might want to experiment with a different neckline or modified skirt. Here's another idea. Grace's bodice was actually a blouse. You could experiment with a shrug or jacket over a strapless gown.

A CELEBRATION OF BRIDAL FASHION

Stephanie Williams
If there is such a thing as visual poetry it is in these images. All are from a recent photo shoot I had with Orange County wedding photographer Stephanie Williams. We shot five of my gowns in various locations around San Juan Capistrano, California--including the mission. While I'm seeing more 'real wedding albums' with this sort of editorial feel, for me Stephanie's work is the quintessential. READ AND SEE MORE IMAGES . . . .

NIGHTGOWN CHIC

beyonce!!! ... by stylist to the stars featuring Jimmy Choo heels & wedges

Fortunately we're in an era when it's okay to wear a wedding gown that looks like lingerie. All the choices here echo nightgowns from the 30s-40s era therefore also look vintage, don't you think?

Untitled by noufo0o featuring Forever21 brooches

Here's another fortunately: Your options for accessorizing are many. Pair up any of these gowns with a veil or mantilla and they go classic; nearly any hat, vintage. Try a floral wreath and suddenly the gown goes Boho.

başlıksız by Revan featuring Forever21 belts

I always thank those wonderful creative people over at Polyvore who dream up these gorgeous boards. They're so inspiring and have helped me get dressed all those days I need that little extra ommph to put myself together.

DREAMING IN FRENCH: FLOWER GIRL CHIC

You've heard of Kid Couture. Check out this petite cherub in ruched tulle by Christine Creations . This is just a small snippet from my 'Dreaming in French' series where we'll look at the beauty of custom couture from the country that originated and perfected it.

WHAT'S NEW IN THE GOWN GALLERY?

Stephanie Williams Photography

I instantly fell in love with this embroidered silk organza before it ever took the form of the above 1950s silhouette. Recently to slide off the work table, 'April' is the newest in my 'Dioresque Collection'--layers and yards of skirt under a tiny, cinched waist.
Somewhere between semi-formal and high fashion, I find the just-above-the-ankle Ballerina length so flattering--especially when worn with Barbie-doll heels or ankle-straps a la 1950s . .

The stunning photo was taken in San Juan Capistrano, California by the very talented wedding and fashion photographer, Stephanie Williams, who has a name for making her brides look like models and models look like real brides.