THE WHITE WEDDING COAT

I've always adored winter white.  This real gem is by designer Marina Astafyeva, a medium weight wool felt wedding coat lined in silk.  Marina's signature look is in mixing textures, colors and off-the-beaten track materials into wearable everyday style.  I knew she was a women after my own heart once I read her motto about how she feels as a designer, "I never compare myself with anyone, never compete. Fashion is a secret."

STALKING THE LOOK BOOKS

Did you know Canada has some of the finest bridal designers in the world? Let's start in Montreal where you'll find Astri Prugger's custom designs.  She creates gowns with just enough individuality to let you be totally one-of-a-kind original on your wedding day. Expert cut and finding exquisite fabrics are her specialty. I especially am glad so many designers are not only continuing color and shades of texture in collections but evolving the trend as you can see here. You can see more of these one of a kind confections on her site . . .

AUTUMN BRIDE

It's Indian Summer here in Northern California with temps in the high eighties yesterday.  Most of the country though is on the precipice of Autumn, leaves changing, chillier afternoons and the smells of baking cinnamon and apple.  Fall weddings can be just so cozy--indoors or out.   Meet Libby, our Fall Bride from the Veiled editorial we ran just before New Years.  She is wearing silk taffeta and longer sleeves out of a stretch silk,  a great conductor of cold despite the lace being sheer (aren't these new fabrics amazing?).  Her tulle veil is the most popular length for brides . . . fingertip and as a bride I wore one something like this and can tell you it didn't get in the way or tangled when I maneuvered through my day of days.  Love her bouquet?  It's made out of yellow roses and Japanese Maple leaves . . add a few berries the closer you get to November . . . . stunning.

Photo by Piximage
Gown and veil by Amy-Jo Tatum Bride
Hair by Kao Vey
Makeup by Necia Whitmore

OPENING NIGHTS: A Night in a Forbidden City

Have I got a a heap of eye candy for you today! Knowing how much you love gala and all that goes with it, I'll get right down to the swoon-worthy stuff. Last Friday was opening night at the San Francisco Opera. With a time-honored tradition for 'Puttin' on the Ritz', SF's opening is a bit like Cannes Film Festival meeting New Year's Eve in Old Vienna. Premiering with Pucini's Turandot, the parade of chic was especially inspiring this year and if you're as amped on couture as I am this is your visual fix for awhile. Notice all those bridal designers we know and love simply switch to technicolor when they come out on nights like this. . . .

WHAT'S NEW ON THE RED CARPET?

TREND#1.) Prints and Drapery . . . While we've been seeing prints featured more and more on the Red Carpet they had particular significance Friday night following Turandot's eastern theme. Add all the brightly embossed and embroidered fabrics and there was a real show of color. Gowns with draping have been no strangers on the runways and carpet; now designers are moving into asymmetrical and pleat variations in both bodices and skirts for evening wear. Above: Marissa Mayer (of Google fame) looked fabulous in a gold shot print gown created by none other than The Duchess of Cambridge's own wedding gown designer, Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen. Below: Former Mayor of San Francisco, Willie Brown with Sonya Molodetskaya in a gorg purple and lavender asymmetrically draped and fitted gown by Azadeh Couture . . .

Above: Deepa Pakianathan wears a Rubin Singer. A rich blue, the cut and lightness of silk organza are all this gown needs to take a walk down the Red Carpet. Check out the asymmetrically pleated bodice and draped skirt--a real must see must see in action on the video as Deepa goes through some serious twirls .

TREND#2.) EMBROIDERY. I haven't seen this kind of handiwork since the 60s when Oscar de la Renta introduced variations of it in the peasant/gypsy look. Well, Oscar is alive and well now reinventing gypsies into Czarinas as you can see in this masterpiece worn by Dede Wilsey. The detail work is exquisite and first glance totally took my breath away. Check out the video to get a close up of the intricate hand work.

In a word, awesome! Lucy Buchanan wears this all over embroidered Naeem Khan so beautifully. The movement in the train is just too stunning and can be seen in the video . . .

TREND#3.) Ruffles Have you noticed they're everywhere in bridal and gala wear with so many variations I could write a whole book about it. Of all the ruffled gowns (and there were stacks) this Christian Siriano worn by Afsaneh Akhatari took the prize and is another video must see.

DESIGNERS GOING GALA

SF Opera opening night has it's handful of fashion designers local as well as international that show up and look magnificent in their own creations. Above is the ever elegant and beautiful Karen Caldwell in a plum confection I just love with knotted/ruched drapery . . .Her bow at the waist is signature Karen. . . .

Jewelry designer Amber Marie Bentley is always beyond the fashion curve. Her 'Over the Edge' look lies somewhere between underground and the most quintessential couture . . .

Above left is Bay Area designer Rebecca Bruce in a masterpiece of silk and satin patchwork, following the eastern theme of this event. If you love one-of-a-kind couture with an edge keep a watch on this designer .

So . . . which of all these gowns is your favorite? It was hard for me to go through hundreds and pick the few that made it to this post. However, I feel this sampling encapsules just how Red Carpet Fashion is developing, evolving and moving to the next level . . . .

Lastly a note of thanks here. Getting it done professionally with an event of this size and scope is a gargantuan task. Without the top notch coverage Drew Altizer Photography gave to SF's Opening Night, this editorial wouldn't be possible.  Special thanks to SF Gate for use of the video which I'm sure you'll all find enlightening and inspiring.

SAMPLE THURSDAY . . .

See more images of Mira and ordering info

For all you brides on a budget I have some good news. It's Fall so I'm selling off some of the photographic samples of 50s style wedding dresses as well as a few other gowns in the collection.   So what you ask, is a photographic sample? It is a mock up made up just for the photo shoot in materials close to but not yet ready for prime time such as the almost priceless silks in which they are custom ordered by clients. It can also be the original and yummy silk dress I make that is two or three seasons old. In any case your sample will be one-of-a-kind and handmade, have couture techniques like hand-picked zipper and hand-tacked linings no machinery can emmulate. Before I sell these gems rest assured they do go through proper refurbishing and cleaning. Fabric samples on request.

See more images of April and ordering info

Keep checking back as I'll be posting more next week on Sample Thursday . . .

WHAT'S NEW IN THE GOWN GALLERY?

Meet 'Fifi' the newest addition to the Oh La La Collection.  Just off the work table, I'm dubbing 'Fifi' the New Years because she reakkt looks like party time personified.  The bodice is made of silk taffeta trim wrapped around the midriff.  A huge wired bow in the back wraps around the front and runs down yards and layers of tulle skirt.  The shoulder and hip are accentuated with giant tulle poufs adorned in tiny seed pearls sewn onto a horse hair bow.  'Fifi' is now available and can be custom ordered through Amy-Jo Tatum Bride.     

THE LIVING ACCESSORY

Wouldn't you agree your most important if not symbolic accessory is going to be the bouquet?  I've had lots of clients over the years and more than a few are undecided at the last minute over to veil or not to veil, what shoes, earrings, etc. to choose. The bouquet however never seems to be an issue.    Before the dress is even finished my client is describing her bouquet in minute detail.  I think certain posies have real significance for each of us.  I carried Calla Lillies wrapped in a Tartan in memory of my parents.  Both had passed at the time and their anniversary was the day before I got married ( yes my mother carried Callas).  A couple months back when I did the Love Stories Shoot, I knew I wanted to incorporate another post within it about pairing up bouquets with your bridal gown.  Finding an inspiration point and blending that idea with your dress is just the beginning of working one or a few colors into an overall theme.  Size and proportion is something else to consider.  Some of us like the idea of carrying a huge burst of or three to four different kinds of flowers in an arrangement while another might go for the simplicity of a small nosegay.  I must thank Victoria Marshall of Victoria's Florals and Events who after seeing these dresses come off the work table put together these stunning custom bouquets for the shoot.  
Join us here next week for Real Bouquets, a post featuring my client's picks for their wedding day

We have here a mix of Roses and Spray roses to echo the Chantilly lace on the bodice and skirt . . .

Dark pink Peonies blended with the gray leaves of Dusty Miller . . .

Mango Calla Lilys and Lily Grass

My fave bouquet of all time!  A bunch of Baby's Breath wrapped in white tulle paired up with a tulle skirt . .

Light blue Tweedia combined with gray Dusty Miller

Blue Sweet Peas compliment this allover white tulle dress . . .

CREDITS

Flowers . . . . . . Victoria Florals and Events Design

Gowns: Amy-Jo Tatum Bride
Hair: Style by Lana
Makeup: EliteStylist
Models: Models: Joy Mann, Rocio Flores, Curtis Ashton
Venue: Robson-Harrington Park, San Anselmo, Ca